This page will guide you through all the steps to build your own scale.
You just need some skill, all the materials needed and the software is explained here.
A thin soldering tip is advantageous
It depends somewhat on which screw heads the selected screws have.
The print space must be at least 135 x 125 x 13 mm. An SLA printer probably offers more details but printing is also possible with FDM.
I recommend tweezers, because the scale contains a lot of tiny parts
(Optional).
A small pair of pliers to shorten the cables, a pair of scissors is actually also sufficient.
(Optional)
Stripping the thin cables is also possible with fingernails, but much more convenient with a tool.
(Optional).
Some items link directly to the manufacturers.
In addition, I give here a shopping list for the hardware small parts, these can be ordered almost all on Mouser.de:
PLA or ASA, for example, can be taken as the printing material.
The threads are melted into the plastic with heat. The 3d models are designed for 2.5mm height and 3.2mm diameter.
Thin solder is best, as not much is needed.
Thin heat shrink tubing is advantageous to protect the solder points.
To load the scale and to initially install the software.
To attach the battery, two adhesive strips are used, which are usually sold in pairs for cell phones.
Needed to connect the battery to the board. May not be needed with a new board or different battery.
The advantage of this board is a LiPo charger, which means that no additional board is needed. Currently, however, an alternative is being sought, which consumes less power.
These load cells were chosen for their low height.
These boards convert the analog signal of the load cells into a digital signal. Possibly this is still changed into a board or an ADS1231 is used.
The LEDs are used as status indicators.
2 displays are needed to show larger negative numbers (e.g. -123.5) and a timer is also shown.
A piezo buzzer is used for sound feedback when pressing keys.
Illuminated touch buttons are used for input, so the hardware can be completely protected by the case.
A large battery provides the power supply. Currently, the battery lasts about a week with the Huzzah32, which can possibly be greatly improved by a board with better power management.
To print the 3D models, a print space of at least 135 x 125 x 13 mm is required as described above.
I recommend a 0.2 mm print nozzle and have used the following (Cura) settings:
Es gibt verschiedene Wege die Binärdateien auf den ESP zu flashen. Die hier gezeigte Methode benötigt keine Installation zusätzlicher Programme.
The setup of the scale will be explained here later.
Information about the calibration of the scale.
This project is currently still under development, as there are still some vulnerabilities, which should be removed.
Currently, the following things are being developed:
This is looking awesome! Also very detailed descriptions. I really want to use your scale approach but I am insecure how capacity buttons are working here? Are they covered by the printed case? It would be awesome if you could elaborate on this for the sake of making it easier for me! I am thinking of printing a slightly bigger “weiging waggon” and then from a plaster mold I would make a silikon cover with a little skirt to make it harder for water to enter and make it easy to keep clean. Have you tried such an approach? It… Read more »
Hi thanks for the comment. Yes the buttons are hidden behind one layer of 3d printed plastic. In the technical documents of the buttons it states: Distance between Button and cover: “Maximum distance between overlayand acrylic/glass:0.015” [0.38mm] Material thickness: “Maximum thickness of acrylic/glass, 0.118” [3mm]” I am not really using it because i bought another scale it was more a fun project. A silicon cover sounds great but make sure it doesn’t bend and make faulty readings. I think a hardware switch is not necessary because the esp can go into deepsleep and almost use no energy and can be… Read more »